Tom Parker Bowles: Harrison Dover Sole “The Finest Fish I’ve Ever Eaten”
1 September 2020
The Mail on Sundays leading food critique and son of Camilla, Tom Parker Bowles proclaimed that Harrison Ovens cooked Dover sole he ate at Angela’s fish restaurant in Margate is “The finest fish I’ve ever eaten”.
Tom wrote:
“Head chef Rob Cooper sure knows his way around a fish. Potatoes too, Harrison oven-roasted Great Gatsby potatoes, as good as you’d find at home. A plump wodge of hake is gloriously fresh and gloriously cooked, sitting in a shellfish bisque that manages to be both delicate and intense, with a nudge of Spanish and a good ooof of French. There’s a whole scallop in there, and a fistful of mussels, a plateful of gleeful piscine abundance. It could be the poster boy for a united Europe, although unlike Brexit, there’s swift resolution. The whole dish is dispatched within moments.”
“Then there’s the Dover sole. A mighty fish, elevated here to almighty status. Perhaps the best I’ve ever eaten, the texture firm, with a whisper of bounce, the flavour the very essence of marine vim. It comes with a salsa verde, but there’s no need for any embellishment. We pick the flesh off the bones. Coad later tells us they rest the fish for 15 minutes after cooking, as it were a piece of beef. Whatever they do, it’s magic. Fresh, locally caught fish, treated with reverence and adoration.”
Read the full article at Mail Online
